Kamiuta Vineyards
In Japan's least populous city, history is being made.
Founded 2021
Utashinai, Hokkaido
Varieties planted
Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, Barbera, Grignolino (yes, really), Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Malvasia, Zala Gyöngye
The People
Kamiuta Vineyards was started by Masato Endo in 2021 after initially planting grapes experimentally in Utashinai in 2016.
Prior to making wine, he'd worked as a sommelier at an Italian restaurant in Kyoto, but soon felt his true calling was in the vineyard.
Today, Endo-san lives in Utashinai with his wife, Miki, four cats, and one dog, where they live a quiet life making wines in a place you'd never expect.
The Land
Utashinai sits further north than the more established winemaking regions like Hakodate and Yoichi, and notably, is situated far inland - around 50km from the nearest coast.
As such, rainfall here is slightly lower and day-night temperature swings are huge. Winters are harsh, with temperatures regularly dropping below -20 degrees celsius, but as with some parts of Hokkaido, vines are kept 'warm' under a thick blanket of snow.
The Wine
Kamiuta Vineyard's portfolio is simple - just two wines.
The first is a sparkling wine, which changes cepage every year depending on what the land gives them. Extended lees-aging steers these wines in the direction of champagne, yet they're notably distinct and a unique expression of Japanese bubbles we've not seen elsewhere.
The second is their rosé which is made from a blend of red grape varieties, and whose pale colour belies its remarkable intensity and depth.
Despite being keeping a relatively low profile even within Japan, the quality of these wines had already attracted the attention of the folks at Noma Kyoto, where it was eventually listed.