The first time I had Rokugawa-san’s reds, what struck us was how juicy they were despite their immense ripeness. Since then, I’ve come to understand that Ueda, sitting on the left bank of the Chikuma River, is the perfect place for creating what I’d describe as the ‘New Bordeaux’. Forget crushing reds that take years to soften - this is a Bordeaux blend you can drink now, and won’t be able to stop drinking from now on.